Pamirs' Summits
Pamirs' Summits
Two high‑altitude ascents with a guide: Yukhin Peak (5,130 m) + Razdelnaya Peak (6,148 m)
Double Ascent Expedition
Double Ascent Expedition
Destination:
Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay Mountains, Trans‑Alay Range, Lenin Peak massif
Duration:
12 days / 11 nights (Osh‑Osh) | also available via Bishkek or Tashkent
Itinerary:
Osh – “Edelweiss Meadow” yurt camp (3600 m) – Tulpar-Kol Lake – “Sunny” camp (4400 m) – Yukhin peak (5130 m) – Camp 2 (5,300 m) – Razdelnaya Peak (6,148 m) – Osh
This is a guided climbing program designed for mountaineers who wants to experience real high‑altitude mountaineering above 5,000 m and 6,000 m – crampons, rope teams, crevasses, fixed lines, and high camps. You’ll climb two distinct summits in the Lenin Peak massif, train on snow/ice techniques, and sleep at 5,300 m
Guided Double Ascent Expedition: Yukhin Peak (5,130 m) is a non‑technical snow slope ascent ideal for testing your altitude response and refining basic glacier travel; Razdelnaya Peak (6,148 m) is a proper high‑altitude climb with open/closed crevasses, fixed ropes, and 35‑40° slopes.
Perfect acclimatization: 3,600 m → 4,400 m → 5130 m → 5,300 m → 6,148 m.
Send Request
Full logistical support and sleeping in our camps at 3,600m, and 4,400m – with heated yurts, hot meals, medical oversight and Starlink at Base Camp & Camp 1 – you can check weather forecasts and send updates from 4,400 m.
If you can move efficiently at 6,000m with a pack, manage cold, and stay focused on technical terrain, you're ready for the next level.
Guaranteed group departures 2026 (Osh‑Osh):
Group #01:
04.07–15.07.2026
Group #02:
17.07–28.07.2026
Group #03:
30.07–10.08.2026
Group #04:
14.08–25.08.2026
Скрипт слайдера
Инструкция будет автоматически скрыта при публикации. Либо можно оставить только один HTML-объект, а инструкцию удалить
Для настройки слайдера перейдите в окно настроек, для этого выделите этот блок или блок с кодом или любой элемент слайдера, кнопка настроек появится на панели инструментов справа.
Quick Route Facts at a Glance
Difficulty: Challenging. Crampons + ice axe required; avalanche risk, crevasses, rope work, fixed line sections (jumar).
Age: 18+
Group Size: 3 participants
Physical Fitness: Ability to cover long distances under sustained physical load (it is recommended to be capable of running a half marathon – up to 20 km): good overall endurance and the ability to perform prolonged physical activity at high altitude.
Camps: Base Camp "Edelweiss Meadow" (3,600m) → Camp 1 "Sunny" (4,400m) → Camp 2 (5,300m)
Max Altitude: 6,148 m (Razdelnaya Peak)
Max overnight altitude: 5,300 m (high-altitude Camp 2).
Free rental: gas burner, gas cans, sleeping mat, rope, cooking utensils at Camp 2
Permits (border zone – mandatory, included in price).
Visa-free for EU/Schengen passport holders (up to 60 days).
Camps: Base Camp "Edelweiss Meadow" (3,600m) → Camp 1 "Sunny" (4,400m) → Camp 2 (5,300m)
Application deadline: 30 days before arrival.
Technical Skills: confident movement on ice and snow slopes (up to 60° incline) while wearing crampons: skills in ascending and descending fixed ropes; proficiency in basic mountaineering knots; experience using standard mountaineering equipment; understanding the principles of self-belaying and belaying a partner.
Скрипт аккордеона
id:
Инструкция будет автоматически скрыта при публикации. Либо можно оставить только один HTML-объект, а инструкцию удалить
Для настройки аккордеона перейдите в окно настроек. Для этого выделите этот блок, блок с кодом или любой элемент аккордеона, кнопка настроек появится на панели инструментов справа.
Daily itinerary
Day 1
Arrival in Osh (963m) → Transfer to the Pamirs: M41 Pamir Highway & Taldyk Pass (3,615 m) → "Edelweiss Meadow" Yurt Camp (3,600m)
Arrival at Osh International Airport (OSS). Meet our rep. Short briefing, document handover, last supermarket stop.
Drive along the Pamir Highway – ranked by National Geographic as one of the world’s top 10 most scenic roads.
- 5 hours, ascending from 963 m to 3,600 m.
- Traverse the vast Alay Valley.
- The serpentine of Taldyk Pass (3,615 m) – classic switchbacks with the first view of Lenin Peak north face (7,134 m).
Arrive at "Edelweiss Meadow" yurt camp located at 3,600m with uninterrupted views of the giant.
Afternoon warm up hike: Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow (3,800 m) & Achik Tash Canyon.
- Hiking: 7 km, +250 m gain/loss, ≈2 hours.
- Red rock pillars, multicoloured slopes, a conical pyramid, two rivers.
- In July and August: funny marmots and carpets of edelweiss and wild leeks.
Overnight at "Edelweiss Meadow" yurt camp.
breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 2
Sacred Tulpar-Kol Lake (3,850m)
Cross a footbridge to reach Tulpar-Kol, a lake revered by local shepherds as a place of healing. Tradition holds that its waters remain pure – no swimming, no livestock, no extraction, but you can pray at the shore or sprinkle water on sick joints. Walk the shoreline, visit nearby nomadic families, and learn about yurt craftsmanship and daily life.
- Hiking: total ≈8 km | 5–6 hrs.
- Altitude: 3,600 m → 3,900 m (gain/loss 260 m).
- Grazing yak herds, and sometimes argali sheep.
Return to camp.
Overnight at "Edelweiss Meadow" yurt camp.
breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 3
Acclimatisation: Petrovsky Peak ridge viewpoint (4,150 m)
A shorter but intensely rewarding ascent to a 360° viewpoint.
- Hiking: 3-4 hours, +550 m gain/loss, ≈5 km.
- The entire Alay Valley – 150 km wide, the jagged Trans-Alay Range.
- Lenin Peak up close.
- The labyrinth of Achik-Tash lakes and Tulpar-Kol from above.
- Snow-filled cirques of adjacent valleys.
- Base camps and the climbers’ trail to the summit of Lenin Peak.
- Ideal for landscape photographers.
Return to camp.
Afternoon: rest and prepare for tomorrow’s trek to “Sunny” Camp 1.
Overnight at "Edelweiss Meadow" yurt camp.
breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 4
Trek to “Sunny” Camp 1 (4,400 m) – Advanced Base Camp at the foot of Lenin Peak
Key sections:
- Trekking: 12 km, +800 m gain, 6-7 h.
- Route: Leek Meadow → Marmot Meadow → “Spirit Castle of Alay” → Puteshestvennikov (Traveller’s) Pass (4,150 m) → Lenin Glacier.
- At Traveller’s Pass: classic viewpoint of Lenin Peak’s north face and the Korzhenevsky Glacier (13 km long).
- After the pass: easy descent, then a long traverse along the left moraine.
- Cross a wild mountain river, then ascend the moraine to the glacier.
- Walk on the glacier’s edge (safe path, guided) to Camp 1 – located on the middle moraine at 4,400 m.
Camp 1 infrastructure: heated dining yurt, washstand, toilet, medical point, electricity, luggage storage. Sleeping in spacious camping tents with wooden decks, thermal insulation, and foam mattresses.
Overnight at “Sunny” Camp 1 (4,400 m).
breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 5
Summit day #1: Yukhin Peak (5,130 m)
Distance: 12 km, +730 m gain / -730 m loss, 6‑7 h.
Route breakdown (led by guide, no special gear needed):
- From Camp 1 (4,400 m) traverse the Lenin Glacier crosswise, then ascend the left (orographic) moraine.
- Ascend the moraine ridge – slopes 20‑25°. Enter a gentler area, cross towards the southern slope to a wide couloir leading to the summit.
- Climb the right side of the couloir – max steepness 30°. Mostly snow, some small/medium scree. After exiting the couloir, turn left and walk 15 m on a narrow snow‑covered ridge to the summit plateau.
- Summit! 5,130 m – panoramic view: Lenin Peak’s massive snow wall on one side, the entire Alay Valley on the other. Descend the same route.
Return to Camp 1, rest.
Overnight at “Sunny” Camp 1 (4,400 m).
breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 6
Snow & ice training (4,400 m)
A full day of guided technical training in the vicinity of Camp 1:
- Glacier travel – roped-up, open/closed crevasses, snow bridges.
- Ascending and descending a fixed line (jumar + figure-8).
- Self-rescue techniques (basic crevasse fall response).
Also: preparation of group equipment for the Razdelnaya push – food drops, gas, group gear.
Overnight at “Sunny” Camp 1 (4,400 m).
breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 7
Ascent to Camp 2 (5,300 m)
Big day: 5 km, +900 m, 5‑10 h. Crampons + roped teams required.
Route stages (technical):
- From Camp 1 (4,400 m) follow the glacier to the middle of the north wall. Steep snow ascent (80 m, 35‑40°) – fixed rope or zigzag. This slope is avalanche‑prone – rest stops ≤ 5‑10 min.
- Traverse right to the “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan) – a snow plateau. This traverse is extremely avalanche‑sensitive – move fast, no rest stops.
- Ascent to Camp 2 (5,300 m) – high‑altitude tents on the ridge.
Camp 2: Set up high‑altitude tents, self‑cooking (food pack, gas burner, utensils provided).
Overnight at Camp 2 (5,300 m) – your highest camp.
Breakfast (Camp 1), Lunch & Dinner – self‑cooking (food pack for climbing)
Day 8
Summit day #2: Razdelnaya Peak (6,148 m)
The main event. 5 km, +848 m / -848 m, 5‑10 h. Crampons + roped teams.
Route stages:
- From Camp 2 (5,300 m) ascend 30‑40° slope to the ridge, keeping left of the rocks.
- Move left along a gently sloping ridge, then towards Razdelnaya Peak.
- Summit ridge: 30‑40° snow slope, very deep snow. Concealed crevasses from 6,000 m to 6,100 m – move in roped teams.
- Summit! 6,148 m. Descent same route.
Return to Camp 2. Overnight at Camp 2 (5,300 m)
Self‑cooking (food pack for climbing)
Day 9
Descent to Camp 1 (4,400 m) & "Edelweiss Meadow" Base Camp (3,600 m)
Reverse the route: 17 km, -1700 m total.
- Camp 2 (5,300 m) → Camp 1 (4,400 m) – descend same route, careful crossing crevasses on snow bridges.
- Camp 1 → Base Camp – via Traveller’s Pass.
- Revisit Achik-Tash Canyon: coloured rocks, stone towers, "Land's Edge" viewpoint.
- Arrival at Base camp: hot shower, celebratory dinner.
Overnight at "Edelweiss Meadow" yurt camp (3,600 m).
Breakfast – self‑cooking; Lunch (Camp 1); Dinner (Base Camp).
Day 10
Reserve day (weather buffer)
Built‑in reserve day.
The Pamir climate is severe – snowfalls, heavy winds, rapid temperature drops are common. If not used, this becomes an extra rest day at Base Camp.
Overnight at "Edelweiss Meadow" yurt camp.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.
Day 11
Return to Osh
Morning at leisure: pack, reflect, final coffee with Lenin views
Afternoon transfer back to Osh:
- 5 hours, 280 km, descent of 2,680 m.
- Back over Taldyk Pass (3,615 m) and Chiyrchyk Pass (2,408 m).
- Epic landscapes from a new perspective.
- Hotel check-in; Farewell evening at leisure
Overnight at a hotel.
Breakfast, Lunch
Day 12
Departure from Osh
Hotel check-out before 12:00. Transfer to Osh International Airport. End of the program.
breakfast
What’s included
Services at Base Camp (3600 m):
- Accommodation in spacious and heated camping tents. The tents are equipped with: individual heaters, beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows, changeable bed linen (duvet covers, pillowcases, sheets), electricity (sockets and lighting), bedside tables and chairs
- Meals – full board: 3 hot meals per day, including vegetarian options
- Medical point & on-duty doctor
- Heated traditional Kyrgyz yurts for dining and leisure
- Shower cabins
- Washstands and toilets
- Luggage storage
- Rental point, shop
- Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz
Services at “Solnechniy” Camp (4400 m):
- Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with: wooden flooring with thermal insulation, foam mattresses
- Meals – full board: 3 hot meals per day, including vegetarian options
- Medical point & on-duty doctor
- Heated traditional Kyrgyz yurts for dining and leisure
- Washstands and toilets
- Camping shower
- Luggage storage
- Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz
Completion certificate
Accommodation in a 3* hotel with breakfast in Osh (1 night)
Transfers:
- Airport pick-up and drop-off
- Transfer Osh – “Edelweiss Meadow” Camp – Osh
Documents and fees:
- Permit for entering the border zone
- Ecological fee
Starlink internet in the Base Camp and Camp 1.
Mandatory safety measures:
- Registration with the rescue team
- Route consultation for the ascent
- Rental of a radio station with a battery
Meals:
- Early breakfast upon arrival in Osh
- Full board: three hot meals a day, including vegetarian options (Days 1–6, Day 10)
- Food set for the ascent period
Group Equipment Rental:
gas burner
gas burner
- gas cans (230g): 1 can per person
- sleeping mat
- main rope Ø 8.9 ÷ 10 mm, dynamic
- cooking utensils at Camp 2 (5300 m)
High-Altitude Services:
- High-altitude guide services for the entire active part of the program
- Accommodation in established tents at Camp 2 (5300 m).
- Food set for the ascent period
What’s not included
Visa fees (most EU countries, UK, US – visa-free for up to 60 days).
International flights.
Travel / medical insurance.
Сafé at the yurt camp.
Meals in Osh (except hotel breakfasts).
Personal mountaineering gear (see checklist)
Tips for guides/porters.
Essential Info:
Application deadline & Permits:
30 days before tour start.
30 days before tour start.
The Lenin Peak foothills lie within a controlled border zone (15 km from Tajikistan). Permits require 30 days processing. We handle all paperwork – just send a clear passport scan (no glare/creases). Included in price.
Insurance:
Minimum coverage - $30,000.
Must cover “Mountaineering at altitudes of 6000m”.
Assistance provider must operate in Central Asia.
Must cover “Mountaineering at altitudes of 6000m”.
Assistance provider must operate in Central Asia.
Clothing
- GORE-TEX assault jacket & trousers
- Bib-and-brace overalls, GORE-TEX®.
- Down jacket or synthetic insulated jacket (–15°C comfort, PrimaLoft® / ThermoBall® etc., e.g. BASK Valdez or similar).
- POLARTEC® suit (e.g. jacket BASK Kondor V3 + trousers BASK Vinson Pro V2).
- POLARTEC® thermal base layers – two sets: thin moisture-wicking layer (e.g. RedFox Dry Zone) + thicker insulating layer (e.g. BASK jacket + trousers).
- Knitted T-shirts (merino wool or synthetic blend).
- Sun hat (e.g. Outdoor Research Sun Runner Cap, ActiveIce Cap, Conzumel Sombrero, or Helios Sun Hat) + insulated winter hat (e.g. Outdoor Research Windwarrior Hat, Peruvian Hat or similar).
- Balaclava (e.g. BASK THOR V2, BASK Cascade V2) or thermal buff.
- Thermal socks (3–4 pairs) + sleeping socks + ordinary socks.
- Insulated booties for sleeping – down or synthetic (PrimaLoft® etc., e.g. Baffin Cush Booty).
- High-altitude mittens, down or synthetic insulated (e.g. BASK Brooks-D V2, BASK Creative Mitten V3).
- Thin gloves (fleece, Polartec®, WindBloc®) + thick insulated gloves (e.g. RedFox Ice).
Logistics:
Airport transfers provided only on official tour start/end dates. Early/late arrivals can book extra nights in Osh via us, transfers are rescheduled at no extra cost. If you book your own hotel, the included transfer is forfeited.
For Solo Travellers:
- Option A: Single supplement throughout (+$198)
- Option B: Shared tent at camps + guaranteed single room in Osh (+$25/night)
Extra nights in Osh (Sunrise Osh 3*):
- Single room: 50 USD / night
- Double room: 60 USD / night
Gear Checklist:
Footwear
- Trekking boots (GORE-TEX, Vibram®) for BC/C1
- High-altitude boots (plastic/3-layer, rated to –30°C) for Razdelnaya. With or without overboots.
- High gaiters to protect boots from snow (e.g. Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain High Gaiters).
- Camp shoes / sandals
- Lightweight, open footwear for Osh, where summer temperatures are high.
Technical Gear
- Sleeping bag, down or synthetic, comfort rating ≤ –15 °C (e.g. BASK MUSTANG 700+FP or similar).
- Crampons (fit boots)
- Ice axe (straight shaft, length selected based on user height)
- Two cordalettes, 6–7 mm diameter, 4–5 m length.
- Ice screws, 2 pcs.
- Ascender (right- or left-hand), 1 pc – or lightweight alternative (e.g. Wild Country Ropeman, Petzl Tibloc).
- Descender / belay device – "figure-of-eight" is functional, but Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide, or VENTO "Lukoshko" are preferred.
- Climbing harness.
- Locking carabiners (screwgate or auto-locking), 3+1 pcs.
- Helmet (recommended)
Accessories
- 70–80L summit pack + rain cover
- Transport trunk / wheeled duffel (optional but recommended) – facilitates luggage transfer to Base Camp and horse transport to Camp 1.
- UV400 mountain sunglasses (cat. 3-4 with side protection – no city sunglasses)/ Snow goggles + spare sunglasses (UV400, side shields essential).
- Sunscreen SPF 50+ (UV index often 8-10).
- Lip balm SPF 20+.
- Metallic vacuum flask, 0.5–1.0 L, or insulated Polar bottle (lighter option).
- Headlamp + spare batteries
- Towel (not more than 1 metre long).
- Washing accessories.
- Wet wipes.
- Personal first-aid kit + blister care
- Penknife / multi-tool.
- Telescopic trekking poles.
